Little lady made a big impression

EVEN the dull weather failed to dampen my spirits as I strolled along the banks of the River Eden which meanders through the streets of the old market town of Appleby.

This is easily reached via the M6 motorway. In winter I am always sure of finding interesting strolls because hereabouts there is a balance between history and natural history.

The stretch of river between Appleby and Penrith echoes to the memory of Lady Anne Clifford. This powerful lady was 4ft 10ins tall and was a bundle of energy. She died at Brough Castle near Penrith in 1676 but she is buried in the parish church of St Lawrence at Appleby.

Lady Anne also owned a castle at Appleby and both these splendid structures still stand. For many hundreds of years Appleby was the country town of Westmorland.

In 1974 the twin counties of Cumberland and Westmorland were merged to form Cumbria. Carlisle was the county town of Cumberland and this was chosen as the base for the new county. The people of Appleby were not pleased and signs showing Appleby the county town of Westmorland are still proudly displayed. I don't blame them. I think politicians should have left our boundaries alone. Gisburn should still be in Yorkshire and so should Waddington.

I still can't bring myself to say Greater Manchester for Oldham and Rochdale. These are still in Lancashire and so is Southport. It is not in Merseyside!

Outside the castle gates at Appleby there stands a magnificent pillar erected by Lady Anne and carrying her inscription "Retain your loyalty, Preserve your rights." This lady was obviously a democrat, but she was also a philanthropist. As I descended from the pillar into the town I diverted my steps and passed beneath an entrance arch to lady Anne's Hospital. This is a well preserved set of alms houses and a splendid little chapel overlooking a cobbled square.

If the castle dominates the upper part of the town then the spacious old church stands proudly over the lower section of Appleby. Nearby is the 16th Centre Moot Hall which now houses the Information Centre.

Inside the church are the memorials to lady Anne Clifford and her mother - the two ladies were always very close. Both tombs are fine examples of 17th Century craftsmanship with the mothers being more traditional. That of Lady Anne herself is constructed of black marble and bearing the coats of arms of her relatives.

The present main road from Appleby to Penrith follows a very ancient route and passes Brougham Castle where Lady Anne died close to the castle is a roadside monument which has since become known as the Countesses Pillar. In 1656, Lady Anne erected the pillar in memory of her mother. On this spot the two ladies met in 1616 and shortly afterwards the old lady died. Nearby is the Dolestone where for many years Lady Anne annually distributed alms to the poor in remembrance of her mother. Around all these areas are a number of well marked footpaths, plenty of parking plus plenty of pubs, roadside cafes and public conveniences.

As I was investigating an old blackbird's nest I disturbed two woodmice sheltering from the wind. A closer look revealed they had been eating hawthorn berries which they had obviously stored as a reserve because they do not hibernate.

I left the nest quickly hoping that the mice would return. Although it was only around 2pm, darkness was already closing in and I headed off in search of a bacon butty and a coffee.

In winter you can't afford a late start - you have to make the maximum use of every minute of precious daylight.

Converted for the new archive on 14 July 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.