WHEN you think of garlic mushrooms you invariably think of mushrooms coated in breadcrumbs served with a garlic mayonnaise dip.

Well think again.

How does this compare? Whole button mushrooms sauteed in roast garlic stock with the addition of double cream and fresh herbs served in a golden pastry case.

That is my interpretation of garlic mushrooms and can be described as "pukka" -- to quote TV's Naked Chef Jamie Oliver.

I have been compared to the Naked Chef, though I don't see the similarity.

I'm not on the telly, haven't written two best-selling cookery books and don't speak with an Essex accent.

We do however share a passion for food and have similar ways of thinking.

I quote the advice on buying spices, taken from his latest book:

"Generally I prefer to go to small ethnic shops for my spices as they tend to be better produced and stored. And they're a lot cheaper than your supermarkets or deli." Does that sound familiar? I have been advising you to do the same for the past 12 months..

If you only buy yourself one cookery book this year I recommend you buy his as it is excellent.

Garlic is much less expensive from Asian food shops so do go and visit one and stock up on your spices at the same time.

What makes this particular recipe for garlic mushrooms extra special is that the cloves of garlic are roasted in the oven before being used. This has the effect of mellowing the garlic and making it more subtle and less intense. This process was taught to me by my friend Chris Dobson, who knows more about food and cooking than anyone I know. Garlic mushrooms can be enjoyed as a light snack, used as a filling for baked potato, on toast for supper or as a simple-to-make appetiser.

The choice is yours as is the type of mushroom you use.

I suggest button mushrooms, as the are mouth-sized and present better on the plate.

A golden pastry case is my favourite base on which to pile the garlic mushrooms.

The fat content of the puff pastry balances the high cream content in this dish and makes it a marriage made in heaven.

I admit it does carry a high calorie count so don't make it too often, delicious as it is.

As usual, I recommend you buy the puff pastry because it really is very time-consuming and not the most simple of pastries to make.

My postbag from readers has been quite light of late so I invite you to drop me a line, telling me of your successes or otherwise with my recipes.

You may even have a recipe of your own that you would like to send to me to try in our kitchen at Callums.

If you have -- and you feel is that bit special -- please send it.

I will try it out and if it is featured in this column I will invite you to be my guest at Callums Bistro for dinner.

Write to Ray Peake, Callums Bistro, Abbey Street, Accrington. BB5 1EE.

E-mail:

ray@callumsbistro.co.uk