A designer, who grew up in Blackburn, says fashion powerhouses have a duty to help the communities they operate in, in the wake of the Chanel Metiers d’Art fashion show.
Wayne Hemingway MBE, who attended Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School, said he is happy that Chanel shone a spotlight on Manchester at its Metiers d’Art fashion show on December 7.
The French luxury fashion house chose to present the fashion show at the Northern Quarter in Manchester as it is “one of the most effervescent cities of pop culture and an avant-garde one, whose bands, spanning all genres, have changed the history of music.”
The show, which only lasted 15 minutes, was attended by a-list celebrities including Hugh Grant, rapper Aitch and Liam Gallagher.
Wayne, who was the co-founder of fashion label Red or Dead, said he worked in Manchester as a young designer.
He said: “I think it is good that Manchester is being talked about from a fashion perspective and it is a strong city in terms of fashion.
“We were young designers at one stage, myself and Gerardine Hemingway, and Manchester gave us so much, including affordable space to trade from.
"At one stage we had three stores in Manchester.
“So many great youth culture movements have come out of Manchester and it has always been that kind of place, known for fashion and music.
“Chanel recognised the fashion and music scene in Manchester and also recognised its textile history.
“They have got so much publicity but I wonder if they going to add to this legacy?”
Wayne now wants Chanel to reveal what it is giving back to Manchester, if anything, adding that fashion companies should always aim to make a positive societal impact and give back to the communities it works with.
He said: “A lot of money has been spent on the marketing exercise - can they leave a legacy?
“If they are going to lean on the powerful Manchester brand, which is valuable to people in the city, what are they giving back?
“I wonder if Chanel could be helping to give young designers the affordable shop opportunities we had 40 years ago?”
Wayne also questioned the temporary roof structure that was built over Thomas Street, to protect the models and guests from the elements. He said the structure could have been used to protect the city’s homeless from wind and rain, after the show was over.
Reports from regional newspapers suggest that the structure is set to be taken down but it is understood that Chanel has now offered Manchester City Council the chance to take ownership of the structure.
He said: “One thing I thought was questionable was building a temporary roof over a street for vast sums of money on the premise that it was to keep highly paid models dry.
“If I had been in that marketing team, I would have suggested building something more permanent to help people not as lucky as those models, who have to deal with wind and rain on a daily basis.”
Wayne said “purpose and positive legacy” should be at the core of everybody’s business.
He said: “If you are not thinking about giving back to the less fortunate then you are out of touch with how the world should work.
“I am sure Chanel has plenty of initiatives where they are giving back, but I want to know what they are giving back to Manchester where they just gained so much publicity.”
Wayne and other designers have proven that it is possible to give back to the community.
Wayne co-founded and plays a role in Blackburn’s Festival of Making, which takes place in the town each year and is described as “ a unique celebration of making, from the kitchen table to the factory floor”.
Wayne also praised the work of Patrick Grant, star of the BBC’s Great British Sewing Bee.
He founded Blackburn-based company Community Clothing, which aims to “make clothes that do good. Good for people, local communities, customers, and the planet.”
Wayne said: “It is possible to do good with fashion, including in Blackburn. This is shown through Patrick Grant with his Community Clothing.
“Patrick is proving that you can enrich people’s lives – and he doesn’t have the resources companies like Chanel have.
“I co-founded and play a role in the Festival of Making and don’t take a penny.”
The Chanel Culture Fund was set up to “support cultural innovators in advancing new ideas and greater representation in culture and society”.
Chanel also said it is “committing to a series of long-term partnerships with leading cultural institutions around the world to create new programmes that will support innovation in creative and cultural thinking.”
Chanel has been approached for comment.
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