THIS week I’m singing the praises of the humble leek, the unsung hero of seasonal British produce.

Leeks are part of the same family as garlic and onions but have a subtler and sweeter flavour which makes them ideal for a variety of recipes.

Most commonly paired with potatoes and cheese, they also go well with fish and salty meats like bacon and are often added to soups and stews to enrich the flavour.

In fact, two of the world’s most well-known soups, Scotland’s cock-a-leekie and France’s crème vichyssoise, are made from leeks.

Although leeks are available from late summer onwards, I always associate them with cold weather and comfort food, simply because of the kind of foods they pair best with.

When buying leeks, choose smaller or medium sized for the best flavour. The larger ones tend to be tough and less sweet and quite a lot will be lost when you trim them.

The white, firm part of the leeks is normally the part that is eaten and the green leafy part at the top is often discarded (due to it being more woody).

Smoked haddock, leeks and cream are a match made in heaven and are often combined together, either as a complete meal or as a base for another dish.

This is one of the most popular items on the restaurant menu at this time of year and I get asked for the recipe on an almost weekly basis.

I normally serve it with a lovely fillet of white fish such as hake or cod but you can also use salmon. Alternatively you can serve it as it is, as a light lunch with some crusty bread.

The smoked haddock gives this sauce an extra element of richness and sweetness that pairs perfectly the other flavours.

You only need a little bit otherwise the flavour will be too overpowering. Be sure to buy natural smoked haddock rather than the dyed yellow variety.

It’s important to wash the leeks well because dirt can get trapped between the many layers and the result will be a rather unpleasant, gritty meal. You can give them another rinse after chopping to make sure it’s all been removed.

Smoked Haddock with Creamy Leeks

(serves 2)

2 leeks, washed thoroughly to remove any grit and trimmed

25g butter

50g natural smoked haddock, skin and bones removed

200ml double cream

Black pepper

A few sprigs of fresh dill

Chop the leeks into slices approx. half an inch thick.

Over a medium heat, melt the butter in a sauce pan and gently sweat the leeks for a few minutes until softened. Reduce the heat slightly to avoid browning.

Add the haddock to the pan and pour in the cream.

Bring to a gentle simmer then cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the haddock is cooked and has started to break up. Do not allow the cream to boil.

Finish with a twist of black pepper and the chopped dill and serve alongside a piece fresh fish such as cod, hake or salmon and some fluffy mashed potatoes.