The enormous tax take means it’s now pretty rare to find any wine for under a fiver Discovering anything drinkable is even harder.

Here’s one though and it’s nearer to £4 than £5.

It’s French, uncomplicated but has a cherry tastiness that makes it pretty versatile.

An excellently-priced, 12 per cent red.

Cuvee Chasseur Rouge 2010, £4.29, Waitrose.