Church Mouse Falanghina 2008, £5.50, Asda Falanghina is a native, and very old, Italian white grape that grows near Naples in the southern region of Puglia where some of the country's best value wines are made.

The label boasts of simplicity in labelling and bottling being a key although the name 'Church Mouse' and memorable motif is a distinctly clever marketing move.

That aside the taste is delightfully different, dry, fresh and lively and the price is superb.