The Wine Society was founded in 1874 and is a co-operative for wine lovers.

You pay a one-off £40 for a lifetime share and can buy whatever you want.

Without the need for supermarket profits prices are keen and this plump, plummy red made with Chile’s own Carmenere grape is excellent value.

It is smooth with hints of coffee. There’s bags of body and the alcohol level is 14 per cent.

De Martino Legado Reserva Carmenere 2008, £7.95, thewinesociety.com.