SAINT Veran is one of France's Burgundy appelations often overlooked in favour of over-priced neighbours.

This is a lovely melon-flavoured example of the positive progress being made by some French winemakers in marketing their wine.

A few years ago it would have been unheard of to put the name of the grape, Chardonnay, on the label, but not any more. Sensibly alcoholic (13%), screw-topped and a super price.

BLASON de BOURGOGNE SAINT-VERAN 2006, £5.99, Tesco