Mellor: Spread Eagle

1:42pm Saturday 2nd February 2008

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I IMAGINE the designers brought in to re-model The Spread Eagle and transform it from a Brewers Fayre were given the brief "rustic sophistication".

If so, they did a good job. From the pictures of tractors on the walls to the great hunks of bread served with balsamic vinegar and olive oil it definitely has a rustic charm nestling among the decadence that comes in the form of huge chandeliers and mood lighting.

With eight of us dining out it took a while to order, simply because there was so much to choose from.

I'd decided on the crab fishcakes, then switched to the beef medallions from the specials board, but by the time the waitress came round to me I found myself ordering the sirloin steak with herb and peppercorn butter.

When the steak came it was a bit over-cooked, not quite the "medium" I'd asked for, more medium well - but it was delicious anyway.

The others ordered the classic burger (loved it), salmon fillet from the specials board (thumbs up), the crab and cod fishcakes (excellent) and the Welsh lamb (nice, but slightly tough).

One of the men ordered fillet of sea bass and ended up a bit disappointed when two tiddlers arrived and were wolfed down so quickly it took half of his wife's portion of fishcakes to satisfy his hunger.

Pricewise it worked out as around £50 per couple but that did include several rounds of drinks, coffees and several puddings.

All in all, The Spread Eagle's transformation from pub chain to "proper" restaurant has been a resounding success.

The decor is good and the staff friendly. But most importantly the food is really good.

SPREAD EAGLE, Mellor Lane, Mellor.