Mellor: Spread Eagle

5:15pm Monday 30th June 2008

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THE last time I visited the Spread Eagle it had only recently undergone a dramatic conversion from cheap and cheerful to stylish dining, so a return was long overdue.

I have to say that I love the dining area with its mish mash of chairs and tables and a sense of flair that is very rustic French.

The problem is that the dining area is also large (although they have done their best to create more intimate spaces) and, as a result the atmosphere suffers a little. Certainly on our visit, even though there were quite a lot of diners, it wasn’t buzzing.

There is an interesting set of choices on the menu, plus daily specials, and although I know some will say it’s a tad pricey I honestly don’t think around a tenner for a main course is asking too much for quality.

I went for the Moroccan vegetable tagine served with cous cous (£9) while the better half chose bacon steaks and eggs (£8.95).

Done properly, tagine is a wonderfully flavoursome dish and I have to say the Spread Eagle got it right with butternut squash, aubergines and sweet peppers in a tangy tomato sauce. The cous cous was perhaps a little dry and those with hearty appetites would have also wanted a pudding but I thoroughly enjoyed it.

If portion size could be questioned with my dish, the bacon steaks were quite the reverse — two thick steaks with no less than two double-yolked fried eggs, a generous helping of chips and a giant beef tomato.

And, I’m told the quality matched the quantity. I can vouch for the chips as I had to lend a hand! And word too for the service which was attentive without being obtrusive.

Even with the recent ‘fuel crisis’ I cannot see the country eating establishment becoming a thing of the past. We all enjoy that treat of driving out somewhere once in a while.

The Spread Eagle at Mellor has certainly reinvented itself and although it is in a highly competitive market I think it’s on the right track.

The verdict

French country feel and a good choice of dishes.