Spread Eagle, Mellor

Phone number: 01254 813033

Lancashire Telegraph review by John Anson from June 30, 2008.

THE last time I visited the Spread Eagle it had only recently undergone a dramatic conversion from cheap and cheerful to stylish dining, so a return was long overdue.

I have to say that I love the dining area with its mish mash of chairs and tables and a sense of flair that is very rustic French.

The problem is that the dining area is also large (although they have done their best to create more intimate spaces) and, as a result the atmosphere suffers a little. Certainly on our visit, even though there were quite a lot of diners, it wasn’t buzzing.

There is an interesting set of choices on the menu, plus daily specials, and although I know some will say it’s a tad pricey I honestly don’t think around a tenner for a main course is asking too much for quality.

I went for the Moroccan vegetable tagine served with cous cous (£9) while the better half chose bacon steaks and eggs (£8.95).

Done properly, tagine is a wonderfully flavoursome dish and I have to say the Spread Eagle got it right with butternut squash, aubergines and sweet peppers in a tangy tomato sauce. The cous cous was perhaps a little dry and those with hearty appetites would have also wanted a pudding but I thoroughly enjoyed it.

If portion size could be questioned with my dish, the bacon steaks were quite the reverse — two thick steaks with no less than two double-yolked fried eggs, a generous helping of chips and a giant beef tomato.

And, I’m told the quality matched the quantity. I can vouch for the chips as I had to lend a hand! And word too for the service which was attentive without being obtrusive.

Even with the recent ‘fuel crisis’ I cannot see the country eating establishment becoming a thing of the past. We all enjoy that treat of driving out somewhere once in a while.

The Spread Eagle at Mellor has certainly reinvented itself and although it is in a highly competitive market I think it’s on the right track.

The verdict

French country feel and a good choice of dishes.

Lancashire Telegraph review by Caroline Dutton from February 2, 2008.

I IMAGINE the designers brought in to re-model The Spread Eagle and transform it from a Brewers Fayre were given the brief "rustic sophistication".

If so, they did a good job. From the pictures of tractors on the walls to the great hunks of bread served with balsamic vinegar and olive oil it definitely has a rustic charm nestling among the decadence that comes in the form of huge chandeliers and mood lighting.

With eight of us dining out it took a while to order, simply because there was so much to choose from.

I'd decided on the crab fishcakes, then switched to the beef medallions from the specials board, but by the time the waitress came round to me I found myself ordering the sirloin steak with herb and peppercorn butter.

When the steak came it was a bit over-cooked, not quite the "medium" I'd asked for, more medium well - but it was delicious anyway.

The others ordered the classic burger (loved it), salmon fillet from the specials board (thumbs up), the crab and cod fishcakes (excellent) and the Welsh lamb (nice, but slightly tough).

One of the men ordered fillet of sea bass and ended up a bit disappointed when two tiddlers arrived and were wolfed down so quickly it took half of his wife's portion of fishcakes to satisfy his hunger.

Pricewise it worked out as around £50 per couple but that did include several rounds of drinks, coffees and several puddings.

All in all, The Spread Eagle's transformation from pub chain to "proper" restaurant has been a resounding success.

The decor is good and the staff friendly. But most importantly the food is really good.

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