WHALLEY stands astride the Lancashire Calder, which meanders on for a mile or so until it meets the River Ribble.

The name Whalley is said to be Saxon and means "the place of the wells."

Some historians claim that St Augustine founded a church there as early as the seventh century.

In the churchyard are three crosses, one of which is said to be contemporary with St Augustine. Not all historians agree and some are sure that the crosses date to the 10th century.

With its attractive huddle of old coaching inns, tea shops, antique and up-market dress shops, the town is a tourist's delight.

At one time it was a driver's nightmare as cars became bottlenecked around Whalley Bridge. Whalley is still busy but the A59 bypass has become a route for lorries and heavy traffic.

The town is rightly famous for its wonderful Cistercian Abbey. In the 12th century an abbey was established at Stanlaw on the banks of the Mersey.

After periods of flooding, Stanlaw was abandoned and the brethren moved to Whalley in 1297.

This was just as well because Stanlaw is now swamped by oil refineries while Whalley is still set in idyllic countryside.

Whalley Abbey was dissolved on the orders of Henry VIII but lots of stonework remains, including a couple of splendid and substantial gatehouses.

The abbey estate was purchased and in 1605 the Assheton family converted the abbot's residence into a substantial house.

Since 1926 the building has been used as a conference centre by the Diocese of Blackburn. The abbey is open to the public for a small fee and there is an excellent book shop.

Because the abbey is so wonderful, the church of St Mary tends to be neglected by visitors. What a shame.

The church is a real gem and dates mainly to the 13th century but the solid tower dates to 15th century. Inside there is a magnificent set of choir stalls which were taken from the abbey.

These are called misericords, which were ledges on the seats on which those taking part in services could rest.

The monks were not without humour and one seat carving shows a woman giving a man a good beating using a frying pan.

In those days most people had to stand during services. Those who were old and infirm were allowed to lean on the wall. Here we have the meaning of the phrase "the weakest goes to the wall."

Until a bridge was built near to the confluence of the rivers Calder and Ribble, there was a row boat ferry known as Hacking Boat. One of these boats is now preserved at the Clitheroe Castle Museum.

Hacking Hall is now a very attractive farmhouse. It was once a manor house and the focus for the ferry.

Near the hall is a substantial Saxon barn, one of the oldest buildings in the whole of Lancashire.

The old grammar school, dating to 1725, replaced an earlier building of 1647 which is still in existence.

One-and-a-half miles south east of Whalley are the remains of Porterfield Camp, an Iron Age fort adapted by the Romans.

Not everything about Whalley is ancient and there is a real modern miracle easily seen from the bridge over the Calder. This is the red brick railway viaduct, built in 1850.

There are 48 wonderful arches spanning the valley. Three of the arches were built in the Gothic style so that they mirrored the architectural magnificence of the abbey.

The viaduct is 600 yards long and 70 feet high a true monument to Victorian ambition and ability.